Trending among TikTok’s skincare posts — a hotbed of individual testimonials touting largely unproven practices — are videos of people happily slathering Aquaphor all over their faces before bed. The practice, known as “slugging,” has been growing in popularity for years. Although it’s far from new. Petroleum jelly has been part of the skincare routines of many Black women and other communities for generations.
In one video with nearly 6 million views, the creator coats their face, saying it’s the way to wake up to “reborn skin.” Another encourages you to finish your nighttime routine with Vaseline.
The problem with this trend is the word occlusive is being tossed around as if it’s a type of moisturizer when it’s not.
What an occlusive does and doesn’t do
An occlusive is a type of ingredient, not a product. Petroleum jelly is a common example, as are shea butter, beeswax, mineral oil, and dimethicone. Occlusives don’t add hydration in the way humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin do, and they don’t soften the skin the way that emollients like ceramides and plant oils do.
Instead, an occlusive locks in what’s already there and makes it harder for bacteria to reach the skin by forming a physical barrier on the skin’s surface. This is why it’s a good idea to layer on an occlusive after getting a tattoo, surgery, or any treatment that leaves your skin vulnerable.
An occlusive will not repair the skin. Think of it more like a temporary bandage that enables the healing process. But you still need to use ingredients that will repair the barrier like ceramides and fatty acids.
Applying a thin layer of Vaseline to dry lips, cracked cuticles, or a healing patch of eczema? Yes! Slugging, preceded by a moisturizer, is even fine once in a while when your skin feels very dry, as long as your skin type allows for it. But if your skin is already parched, adding an occlusive on top isn’t going to do anything because there’s nothing beneath it to hydrate and soften.
Plus, an occlusive’s ability to seal in things on your skin can backfire, especially if you’re using it regularly. Eventually, sweat will stop evaporating, which will lead to overheating. It could even disrupt natural skin cell turnover. Even though Vaseline is technically non-comedogenic, its seal can lock in sweat, sebum, and bacteria, which are pore-clogging. For acne-prone or oily skin, that can create a breeding ground for breakouts or folliculitis.
You’re probably already getting the benefits of an occlusive
A “normal” daily moisturizer usually has a mix of occlusive, emollient, and humectant ingredients that all work together to support the skin. So if you’re already applying it after you step out of the shower (as you should be), you’re getting an occlusive’s seal, along with the hydration that you want to lock in.
And not all occlusive ingredients are created equal, which is why, if you have acne-prone or oily skin, you should use a moisturizer with lightweight occlusives like squalene or dimethicone. Eczema-prone skin or healing skin benefits most from ointments with heavyweight occlusives like petrolatum.
So the next time TikTok makes it look like Vaseline is a cure-all, remember that an occlusive can play a role in your routine, when used correctly, but it’s only as good as what’s underneath.
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