If celebrities or influencers talking up peptides have stumbled into your algorithm, you’re hardly alone. The internet loves peptide therapy at the moment.
You may be wondering: What is a peptide, exactly?
Simply put, peptides are short chains of amino acids that play useful roles in our cells, like reducing inflammation and regulating hormones. Our bodies naturally create thousands of them, and thousands more are made synthetically in labs.
Endorphins are peptides. So are medications like Ozempic. But when influencers talk about peptide therapy, they’re generally referring to a rapidly growing constellation of emerging and experimental products, often in skincare, muscle building, and longevity. These can be rubbed on the skin, swallowed, or injected.
Some of the treatments are reasonably safe and have been studied by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). However, others can be dangerous. The “Barbie” peptide, for example, is often promoted as a healthier way to tan without the sun, even as the FDA has warned of “serious safety risks,” and research suggests it’s linked to an increased risk of melanoma.
There are too many peptides to get into the potential risks and benefits of all of them, but here are a few things to know about the most common uses in skincare right now.
Are skincare products with peptides effective?
Interest in skincare peptides has skyrocketed over the last couple years. Sephora now offers hundreds of topical peptide products that promise a range of benefits, such as plumping lips and depuffing eyes.
Experts say there’s some benefit to peptide therapy for skincare, but it also shouldn’t be the entirety of your skincare routine.
Dozens of natural peptides in our bodies promote collagen production and skin cell regeneration, which keep our skin looking healthy. Peptides like palmitoyl pentapeptide (trademarked as Matrixyl in many popular creams) signal to the skin to create more elastin and collagen. Another, GHK-Cu, delivers copper to the skin, which helps it regenerate. There’s even a peptide that acts like Botox, relaxing facial muscles and, in turn, softening wrinkles.
While it’s limited, some research suggests that topical serums and oils with these chemically engineered peptides can help improve the skin’s appearance.
Historically, the challenge has been in getting these peptides, with their delicate chemical structures, to penetrate the skin and stay stable. The outer layer of our skin is an incredibly effective barrier, blocking germs, toxins, and peptides alike.
But new topical creams are carrying peptides into the body with the help of advanced chemical tools like nanoemulsions and liposomes. (Injectable peptides have become a popular option in Hollywood, but more research is needed to determine whether these are safe and effective for humans.
How to introduce peptide therapy to your routine
If you’re curious about peptides, start with a cream by a well-established brand, experts say, since they’re more likely to put resources into development and testing.
While more research is needed, there are few risks in trying topical products, but stop immediately if you experience a reaction.
Even with the most effective products, keep your expectations low, experts say. No peptide, on its own, is capable of producing dramatic results. The best anti-aging skincare tools remain sunscreen, moisturizer, and retinoids (for those who can tolerate them).
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