No, You Don’t Have to Bypass Retinol If You Have Sensitive Skin, But You Should Proceed with Caution

Sometimes, even the most soothing skincare ingredients can cause an adverse reaction on sensitive skin. What to do, then, about retinol? Yes, it’s touted, and rightfully so, for aiding cell turnover, which spurs a bunch of positive effects for skin. But it also has an extensive track record of irritating even the most tolerable skin.

Basically: Start slow and proceed with caution.

This is what that should look like.

Where to begin with retinol

First and foremost, make sure your skin is clean before you do anything else. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and tepid water. Look for one without active ingredients like exfoliants.

From there, consider starting with a retinyl ester, which is a less concentrated form of vitamin A that’s generally not as aggressive on sensitive complexions as pure retinol. Retinyl propionate, for one, is used fairly widely in facial creams.

If you’d prefer to start with retinol, begin with a very low concentration, around 0.05%. And seek out a cream formulation because serums and gels tend to be more concentrated.

Next: Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. If you’re not pairing retinol with a moisturizer, you’re significantly increasing the likelihood that the retinol will irritate your skin. Not only will a base layer of moisturizer help protect your skin, it also won’t interfere with how well the retinol is absorbed by your skin.

That said, there are a few different ways to layer your moisturizer and retinol. You can dilute the retinol by mixing a small amount into your facial cream. There’s also what’s been dubbed the “sandwich technique,” which entails applying a layer of moisturizer, then using your retinol, and then applying a second layer of moisturizer over top. You can also simply apply retinol after you’ve moisturized.

These techniques are equally as effective in terms of protecting your skin from potential irritation while getting the most from your retinol.

By now you may be wondering, “Exactly how much retinol should I use to start with?” No more than a pea-size dollop two to three nights a week. I know it doesn’t seem sufficient, but it’s necessary to start this way. You’re introducing your skin to a new, powerful active ingredient. Being patient in the beginning should enable your skin to become more tolerant of retinol over time.

If, after two weeks, you’re not experiencing any dryness, flaking, or redness, you can gradually increase the frequency to every other night, then, after a couple more trouble-free weeks, nightly. If at any point, your skin becomes irritated, temporarily cut back on the number of nights you’re using retinol.

In the meantime, don’t think you’re not reaping the benefits. Studies have shown it’s possible to get visible results from using retinol only three nights a week.

Dos and Don’ts when using retinol

While you’re using retinol, even in the beginning stages, try to avoid other skincare ingredients that could cause irritation and dryness, including glycolic and other alpha hydroxy acids. It’s also recommended that you not mix retinol with benzoyl peroxide because the two ingredients neutralize each other, making them less effective.

Beyond that, simply be patient. Typically, you can expect to start seeing results in as little as six weeks, but it could take as long as three months. If, after that time, you’re still not seeing the results you want, see a board-certified dermatologist, who can provide guidance tailored to your needs and potentially prescribe a retinol at a strength that’s more likely to work better for you.