Glycolic acid can be a real asset to your skincare toolkit. It brightens skin tone and texture and reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and blemishes.
But since it’s an active ingredient, you’re going to need to do a little homework before introducing it to your routine. Here’s what you need to know.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant that belongs to a family of acids known as alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, which are derived from sugar cane and widely used in skincare.
Glycolic acid essentially loosens the glue that holds dead skin cells to the skin’s outer surface. And because it has the smallest molecular structure of any of the AHAs, it can penetrate the skin faster and deeper than other acids. This includes the dermis, the layer of the skin beneath the epidermis where collagen is secreted by fibroblast cells. As a result, glycolic acid also helps promote collagen synthesis.
It’s effective when used on normal, combination, or oily skin. However, those with sensitive skin should approach glycolic acid cautiously because it can cause irritation.
Those with darker skin may want to use glycolic acid sparingly and in low concentrations to start with, too. Higher strength products—the sort used in dermatologist-administered treatments—may burn darker skin as it changes the pH of the skin. If you’re unable to tolerate it, consider lactic acid as an alternative.
Seasonality can also impact how well it’s tolerated. Since glycolic acid effectively strips away the upper layers of skin cells, it can make your skin even more vulnerable to the sun. So, using sunscreen daily is nonnegotiable.
If you’re experiencing hormonal dullness or breakouts during pregnancy, glycolic acid (in low concentrations) is on the list of pregnancy-safe skincare ingredients.
How do I begin using glycolic acid?
As with any acid, combining glycolic acid with other harsh acids or overusing it can lead to skin irritation and, in severe cases, damage the skin’s protective barrier. That said, mild-strength formulas are generally safe to use every day. If in doubt, or when starting cautiously, go with the lowest concentration and use it every two to three days. As your skin adjusts, gradually increase your frequency of use and the strength of the acid.
Perhaps the easiest way to incorporate glycolic acid into your routine is through a cleanser, which won’t come into contact with your skin for too long. It’s also a good litmus test for sensitivity since glycolic acid is immediately neutralized when it comes into contact with water.
Eventually, you may want to move on to leave-on formulations such as moisturizers, toners, and serums, where concentrations will be a little higher.
While cleansers can be used daily, most people find that once or twice a week is sufficient when using stronger products. Beyond the concentration, pay attention to the pH of your product; those formulated with a higher pH are done so in order to weaken the acid’s strength and, in turn, minimize irritation.
Once you introduce glycolic to your skincare routine, make sure never to use it on the same day that you’ve used a retinoid. Combining them is a recipe for serious irritation. Alternating days should be tolerable for most, but consult your dermatologist first.
With glycolic acid, remember the adage “Slow and steady wins the race.” Start slowly and use it sparingly and you’ll likely avoid irritation while reaping an array of benefits.
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