Do Blackheads Mean Your Cleanser Isn’t Working?

Since cleanser and face-washing have been top of mind in our recent blog posts, this feels like the right time to address the elephant in the room: If you still have blackheads, does that mean your cleanser isn’t working?

Frustration can sink in when you’re meticulous about your skincare routine and yet it doesn’t resolve every issue. The sight of blackheads, specifically, can be a special kind of torture because they’re often thought to be the result of dirt-clogged pores.

Rest assured, it’s not dirt. The black discoloration occurs because of a chemical reaction between air and clogged oil. See, blackheads are really pores filled with excess oil, keratin, and, sometimes, makeup, that turn black once they’re exposed to air. These tiny black dots can appear on the chest, back, and ears, but they most often crop up on or around the nose.

Do you need a different cleanser?

If various forms of acne, including blackheads, persist, it may be time to reconsider your cleanser, or, to get granular, your cleanser’s ingredients. That said, stronger products aren’t always the solution to nagging skin concerns. In this case, over-cleansing can harm your skin barrier and microbiome, which can open the door to a whole new set of issues.

Don’t lose sight of the goal, which is to cleanse your skin and remove excess oil while nurturing your skin barrier.

Ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide will support your skin barrier. Some combination of these ingredients is present in most hydrating cleansers. Make one of them your daily cleanser. Then supplement it with another cleanser you’ll use once to three times a week to specifically address your blackheads.

This second cleanser should feature benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid.

Benzoyl peroxide effectively clears excess oil, dirt, and makeup. Just be sure to use a white towel with it because it can bleach fabrics. And expired products may become irritants.

Salicylic acid penetrates deeply to clear oils. It may also improve skin tone and pigmentation.

If you have sensitive skin, start using one of these cleansers once a week. After a few weeks, if you haven’t experienced any irritation, begin gradually increasing the frequency.

Avoid using benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid together because it could result in irritation.

Try a holistic approach

Washing your face is an important part of all this, but it’s by no means the only potential remedy for staving off blackheads. A retinoid, for example, paired with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid could reduce oiliness and pore size.

If you used a heavy moisturizer this winter, scale back to a more lightweight formula for the spring and summer. Heavyweight moisturizers, especially those containing dimethicone, can contribute to oil buildup and clogging.

Acne spot treatments, when used as directed, can be effective in the treatment of blackheads.

Finally, there are a number of in-office treatments provided by board-certified dermatologists that can reduce oil production and improve skin texture, including chemical peels, laser treatments, and Hydrafacials.